awesome, now stop it

before i get tempted to have a go at a matching trailer for mine lol.

Thinking about one of these for the front




R

The SJ version





R

Although i may put a bull bar across the front of the A frame like the one on my ols Vit here.




To protect the front.

R

jeez now theres an idea

maybe one day....one day

that box was what i was trying to google to no avail. looks like you found it first.

that'll do for the a frame area.

Thinking of this also to protect the front section, which will be made from a hard top Vit roof.

R

Dont know, not too bad, have removed the fuel tank and all the bits that arent required.

R

Hmm, it does stick up, so , i cant face the tent either out to the side, to the front (but you couldnt have it attached to the tow car and have it up then) or out to the back (but have to remove the spare wheel.

I will have a spare on the Vit which is the same size and Vit fitment. But would still like the extra one i guess.

Also , if i have the tent out to the side i can get access to the rear of the trailer by opening the tailgate. I was thinking of fastening a shelf to the rear door so you could have a cooking ring on it.

R

just read through this with great interest great idea
When i looked into my trailer build i found that if you go above 750kg it has to be braked and here is the downer it must also have auto reversing brakes.
I noticed that the hitch is the braked type and you can just hook the cables to the rear drums but how you going to do the auto reverse part.
I must say that this had me stumped with mine enough to get a huge caravan chassis as a base.

Another little thing to think about is if you have a brakedown the recy people (AA and so on)will only tow a commercialy built trailer but i suppose you could get a mate to tow it home for you.

I recon it will be well under the 750 limit, however yes i have got a braked hitch. The main reasoon being that the ball swivels and i figured it would be less likely to jamb on cross axle situations.

The brakes will be hydrulic with a Land Rover clutch cylinder powering the vit drums on the rear via the standard braking system.

R

Thats a cool idea Richie,

If you did have it opening up over the A frame could you still open the black box, could be better with a box, but with two drawers, one each side. Or a sealed door just on one side.

Think U.S. and AU off roaders put a piece of sheet ali or metal to protect the front of the trailer from stone chips like a bash plate so it stands proud off the trailer front.

Andy

Tidy idea Andy. I could have some mud guard type plates coming down from the bull bar , if i sue that idea.

R

Under 750 your fine then. Wish i could build a car trailer under 750


Ha doomed from the start

Here's a little idea for you to save some weight why not cut the diff from the axle and slide some tube in to replace it. Remove the half shafts and use front hubs. They fit nicely into the end of a rear axle. Its just the bolt holes that dont line up but if you redrill the hubs or weld some plate behind the axle bolt tabs and redrill that.
And while your at it make your spare wheel holder out of a front hub bolted to a frame that way you will always have a spare.
And with the rear diff gone you can lower the floor between the chassis rails to give loads more storage space.

Cheers Rich, i did sreiously consider using the front SJ hubs with a beam axle like you said. Then wondered about using a Vit rear with the centre chopped out ,but then figured , i needed to leave the diff in , to support the half shafts and as the diff in the Vit locates the Heim joint keeping it upright. I suppose its always handy to have a spare diff too. (did wonder about removing the crown wheel but again more work involved)

Getting the times tricky so ive kept it as simple as i can at the moment (dont want to miss the summer )

R

full axle is good
thats what ive got on my trailer a full vitara axle
only down sides its heavy and courses drag = harder to pull and use more fuel pulling